Matt Botos, lead designer of the just released Synergy N5, compiled a list of helpful tips on his website to ensure every N5 is built like a pro. Read on for the guide.


Since many of you will have your new N5 kits within the next few weeks, I thought I would post some helpful information about the N5. Below you will find information concerning the equipment I use, my personal rotor head setup, and some build tips.

* Main Blades – Curtis Youngblood Radix 600mm Stick Bangers
* Tail Blades – Curtis Youngblood Radix 92mm or 95mm Tail Blades
* Paddles – 600 carbon fiber flybar paddle
* Cyclic Servos – Futaba BLS252’s or BLS351’s
* Throttle Servo – Futaba 9257 or 9650
* Gyro – Futaba GY520
* Tail Servo – Futaba BLS251 or 9256 (both are 720us servos)
* Engine – OS55HZ
* Receiver Battery – Thunder Power TP900mah-2SPLRX(2 flights) – TP1800-2SPLRX(5 flights).

My rotor head setup is geared toward a balance between smooth tracking and quick cyclic response. Below are the mechanical settings I use on the N5 programmable head. Settings in the manual will give the novice to intermediate pilot a very nice and stable helicopter.

* Bell Mixer – Both Bell and Hiller on the inside position (illustration below)
* Seesaw/Flybar Carrier – Center Position (illustration below)


Belt Tension –

Too much belt tension will create a lot of drag in the tail drive system. Too little tension will create belt slapping on the boom. The N5 does not need an ultra tight belt, try to achieve a medium belt tension that does not cause boom slapping or create excessive drag. The N5 belt has an XL tooth profile so skipping teeth and slipping should not happen. If the belt is setup correctly you will not even know you are flying a belt driven tail. After flying a belt driven tail on both my Logo 600 and my N5, I never want to go back to a torque tube. The simplicity and durability are unbeatable.
Engine & Clutch Stack Alignment-

Mount your engine and clutch stack into the frames as shown in the instructions. Leave all bolts lose at first. First tighten down the four engine mount tab screws. Next you will want to check your main gear mesh. You can rock the engine slightly toward or away from the main gear to achieve a slightly better mesh. Once you are happy with the main gear to pinion mesh, tighten down the eight motor mount bolts to the frame. Once the engine is secured you can now check the start shaft for free rotation. Move the clutch stack slightly fore or aft until you feel the start shaft is free within the one-way clutch bearing. Tighten down the four clutch stack bearing block screws are you are done.
Tail Pitch Slider Lock Ring –

Use a flat head screw driver and make sure each prong is pressed into the brass pitch slider. After seating all of the prongs, use medium CA to secure the lock ring permanently.
Auto Hub-

Do not try to remove vertical play, this play was designed into the unit to allow the auto hub to float and spin freely. Removing this play will affect your autorotation performance. Also the auto hub can be installed as it appears in the manual or flipped upside down in case the one-way is installed in the opposite direction.
Metal Bearing Blocks –

Be sure to thoroughly heat the bearing blocks before inserting the main shaft bearings. If properly heated the bearings will slide right into the blocks without any force. Once cool they will be perfectly seated.
Pivot Balls –

If you try to remove the pivot balls, please make sure to use some heat before attempting removal. The factory was using some very agressive loctite on the initial kits. In the future all balls will be screwed in two threads and left to the customer for securing.
Elevator control arm set screws –

Either use flat point set screws or grind a flat on the included cup point set screws that come in the kit. Cup point set screws may allow the elevator control arms to rotate slightly after an aggressive flight. I am working with the factory to make sure the correct set screws are included in the future.
Clutch Liner Installation –

The factory did not install the clutch liner per instructions in the manual, this will be corrected in future kits. For those that have kits now, follow these installation steps –

1. Trim an 1/8 inch of clutch liner off the end of the material
2. Insert the clutch liner into the clutch bell to test the fit
3. Wrap the clutch with one layer of electrical tape
4. Use Medium CA or JBWeld to secure the liner
5. Insert clutch into the clutch bell
6. Let glue dry
7. Remove clutch from clutch bell
8. Sizing may be needed in order to allow the clutch bell to spin freely on the clutch. Use a Dremel tool with a large fine grit sanding drum to remove material. A lathe would be ideal but I know most people do not own a lathe.

Start Shaft Hex Adapter –

* Some of the start shaft hex adapters are a little tight on certain starting wands. If you have one of these, take a measurement with your calipers and send me the details.

Engine Removal –

1. Remove the muffler
2. Remove fan shroud
3. Remove four engine tab bolts
4. Drop motor down until it clears the clutch
5. Rotate motor left or right and remove from main frames.

Tail Pulley –

Please remember to Thread lock on the Black tail pulley set screws.


Some parts of the machine have been pre assembled at the factory to reduce any parts shortages, therefore we recommend some assemblies should be stripped and re assembled before flight. Use thread lock for screws into metal assemblies. Please note that heavy duty threadlock has been applied to swashplate balls. Check these for tightness, but you do not need to disassemble. If you wish to remove these then apply heat from a hairdryer in order to loosen the locking compound. Failure to do this may result in damage or breakage of the ball.

Source: Matt Botos

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