The Realflight G4.5 update have been out for a while. Just got mine updated a few days ago and it was a big file at almost 1gigabyte. As with previous upgrades, most of the changes are more on the visual and sound effect, rather than the physics or “realness” of the flight. However, I did discover a slight change in heli flight characteristic.

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Well I seem to have a passion for collecting things in the various hobbies I have.  In RC Helis I collect fueling systems, canopies and starters.  Not sure what my obsession with support equipment is but I don’t think that there is enough quality and attention is directed to these products.

I have always hated with a passion electric fuel pumps…and MOST hand hand pumps as well for nitro fuel.  I have NEVER had and electric or gasoline pump that hasn’t gumed up, handle broke or just plain didn’t work.  Slimline and Sullivan seem to be on the cuttin edge of making these products better but a new player in the field is evolving, Jersey Modeler.

I contacted them because I knew of another helicopter pilot who used their 2.5 gallon electric system so I called and ordered one.  Since I absolutely hate electric fuel pump system I opted for the 2.5 gallon MANUAL PUMP system.  The salesperson talked me into getting the electric system (a smaller one…the 1.3 gallon) for special price so I thought I would try it to see if they could change my mind about electric pump systems.

They asked my which radio system I owned as the pump didn’t include a charger but I could use my transmtter charger to charge it.

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Almost a year ago, I started reading about this “reliable, cheap and high performance” regulator, the Dualsky VR-8L, including the scientific, but not so scientific measurement test done on archeli by ozace. So how is it possible that in today’s world, something can be cheap, new and yet good, I wondered. From my limited experience in life, things can only come in a combination of two out of the three above mentioned “options”. Reliable with good performance, cheap and reliable..etc…but never cheap, reliable and yet of high performance. And the verdict is out after a year of torture and abuse.

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Since the release of the production 700N, more than a few on different forums have asked for faster paddles alternative. The standard answer would always be CY super stubz. While these replies are usually from people who own a 700N running the stubz, not many of them have actually done any comparison between the stock paddles and the super stubz. In fact, I was a little skeptical, because how much faster can this rocket get? I had to find out.

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For those that have not stumbled upon this governor, its being found in more and more helis around the world, as its popularity is skyrocketing. With an integrated Carb Smart management system, gives a good explanation as to why these are hardly staying on retailers shelves.

Thanks Tony Chaveiro for the effort of putting the review together.

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Just released this week is Eflites new Mini CX. It comes in 2 versions, a Bind and Fly, or a RTR version. The RTR version contains a PC Game pad/Playstation type controller. It has trim tabs, and surprisgnly, a Dual Rate option, but not on a conventional switch. In order to switch beteween Dual Rates you actually press in the right stick, and the LED on the transmitter will blink to signify the change, and when switched back, it will go back to a solid red. Pretty nifty.

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After several gallons of fuel have been run through my T-Rex 600N, I started to notice an intermittent, metallic rattling noise which seemed to be coming from the Align pipe. Some research on the forums led me to believe that the baffles were prone to failure in this pipe so I began to look into alternatives.

I had considered purchasing a Hatori pipe, since others have reported good luck with them. Still, I wanted to keep some options open, and I knew that Outrage RC, manufacturers of the G5 and the upcoming Outrage 550 electric helicopters, and the Outrage series of Lithium Polymer battery packs, had just released a new pipe designed for .50 size nitro helis. [ click here to see videos, photos & rest of story ]

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About two weeks ago, I did a “Box opening” post on the 10C. I have spent quite a bit of time with it, playing with the menu and exploring the new features(not that there are that many…). Since I got this as a replacement for my old 9C, I will be comparing it to the 9C in this review. Because I don’t fly any plane that requires complex mixing, I will only be covering the heli functions of the TX.

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A while back, one of the local hobby shops in my area started carrying these Ino-Lab servos from Korea. While they are neither very fast nor really torquey(like those JR 8717 on 7.4v), they are still pretty decent and at the very least, still compares well to the current “decent” digital servos like the Futaba BLS451/BLS252 servos and the Hi-tec 69XX/79XX series. The best part is that it only cost half of what the Futaba BLS series and JR8715/8915, the 8717 for non-US market, are going for.

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Ashely over at T-Rex tuning has posted an interesting review in regards to the CSM flybarless setup rather than the Mikdao V-Bar setup.  A great review.

The following is not a review but more of a technical overview detailing how to turn an ordinary T-Rex 600 into a flybarless T-Rex 600. The process involves the installation of several pieces of electrical equipment as well as mechanical modification of the rotor head to support flybarless operation.

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